Counter. Fernando Trocca’s restaurant that recreates a holiday climate in the Port of Olivos

“There is no better location in Buenos Aires than this one, with the infinite horizon and the Río de la Plata”, says, convinced, Fernando Trocca. The chef who set a course for local gastronomy and has just carried his flagship brand –Sucre– to London and Dubai landed, at the end of 2021, in the Port of Olivos. Nostalgic territory previously reserved for fishermen and weekend walkers, with its pier, sailboats and the classic little grill the nelly as the only proposal, lives in constant boiling since the arrival of Trocca and his Counter.

Before noon, the line begins on Juan Bautista Alberdi street to get one of their tables with a view of the river. Those on the terrace are the most coveted, but the large glazed room also fills up quickly and more than once they have to put up the sign of sold out at the entrance. Anselmo – an iconic character from the area, with his mirrored glasses and unalterable smile – is in charge of explaining the situation and estimating times for those who arrive, while he arranges the cars or waters the plants. Nevertheless, nobody minds waiting an hour or maybe more; they approach without hurry to enjoy the sun, a bit in “holiday mode”.

Trocca managed to replicate in the city the same formula that was already working successfully in José Ignacio and in the Hamptons (New York). For the first time in a place that is not a beach and out of season, Santa Teresita Counter olives It opens all year round and during regular hours. Although at first they were only lunches, they soon added breakfasts and afternoons (with specialty coffee and outstanding pastries) and, recently, they also incorporated nights (two shifts, with reservation and a la carte).

The concept is the same as the other branches. Here no menubut rather the ingredients of the day are displayed –in a game of unevenness, colors and textures– on the famous counter, and they are dispatched until stocks run out. You can choose a small plate (one protein + two side dishes) or a large plate (the same, with three side dishes).

Every day the repertoire changes, but the proportion of the products offered is respected. Fresh and seasonal vegetables shine, with three fixed varieties: sweet potato –a delight, in wedges, with labneh and lime–, carrot and pumpkin. They are combined to taste with quality meats (chicken, pork, fish and some smoked version), organic eggs, fresh salads, soups and stews on cold days plus a special surprise; pasta with chorizo ​​and southern clams, for example.

It could be confused with a buffet, although strictly speaking it is not. A more than interesting aspect: the cooks themselves serve the dishes; They are involved in the entire process, they know what everything is about, they explain and recommend.

There are about 30 people in the team Counter. at the head are Cristian the “Chinese” González and Caro Ferpozzi (the pastry chef, responsible for the remarkable chocolate cream, a favorite along with the plum frangipane), the “ambassadors” of the house, who have been working with the chef on his various projects. In the operational part of the kitchen there is Sophia Goldmanwho also went through the counters in Uruguay and the United States: “After coming from the beach, I didn’t want to have anything to do with getting into the city, but when I saw where the place was, I didn’t hesitate,” he says.

Beyond the strategic location, Trocca quickly distinguishes the other qualities that made this proposal a true phenomenon: “It’s easy, delicious, fast and the price is reasonable”.

Juan Bautista Alberdi 25, Olivos. Monday to Sunday, from 9 to 19. During the day, in order of arrival; at night (Tuesday to Saturday), two shifts, with reservation and a la carte. IG: @mostrador.olivos